Diamond shape is the single most visible design decision you'll make when choosing a ring. It sets the entire aesthetic — modern or vintage, understated or dramatic, classic or fashion-forward. And unlike the 4Cs, which require magnification and grading reports to appreciate, shape is something everyone notices at a glance.
Here's an in-depth look at the ten most popular diamond shapes, including what makes each one special and who they suit best.
Round Brilliant
The classic. The round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape in the world, accounting for roughly 60% of all diamonds sold. It was mathematically optimised in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky to maximise light return, and modern cutting technology has refined it further.
- Facets: 57 or 58
- Best for: Maximum sparkle and brilliance. Timeless appeal that never goes out of style.
- Considerations: It's the most expensive shape per carat because it has the most rough diamond waste during cutting (up to 60% of the rough stone is lost). You're paying a premium for that perfect symmetry.
- Looks great on: Every hand type. The round shape is universally flattering.
Oval
The modern favourite. Oval diamonds have surged in popularity over the past five years, and it's easy to see why. They offer brilliant-style sparkle with an elongated silhouette that looks larger than a round diamond of equal carat weight.
- Facets: 56-58
- Best for: Those who want the brilliance of a round with a more distinctive, elongating look.
- Considerations: Watch for the "bow-tie effect" — a dark shadow across the centre that appears in some ovals. A well-cut oval will have minimal or no bow-tie. Always view the diamond (or high-res video) before buying.
- Looks great on: Shorter fingers, as the elongated shape creates a slimming, lengthening effect.
Pear (Teardrop)
The romantic one. A pear-shaped diamond combines the brilliance of a round with the elegance of a marquise, tapering to a single point. It's distinctive and dramatic, especially as a solitaire.
- Facets: 56-58
- Best for: Statement pieces. Pear shapes make striking pendants and drop earrings as well as engagement rings.
- Considerations: Symmetry is critical — the two halves should mirror each other perfectly. The pointed end should be protected by a V-prong or bezel setting to prevent chipping.
- Looks great on: Most hand types. The tapered point elongates the finger beautifully.
Cushion
The vintage charmer. Cushion-cut diamonds have a soft, rounded square or rectangular shape that recalls antique diamonds. They come in two varieties: "crushed ice" (many small, random facets creating a mosaic sparkle) and "chunky" (larger, bolder flashes of light).
- Facets: 58-64 depending on the variation
- Best for: Vintage and romantic styles. Cushion cuts pair beautifully with halo settings and delicate pavé bands.
- Considerations: Cushion cuts tend to retain more colour than round brilliants, so consider going one colour grade higher if you want a white appearance. The "modified" vs "brilliant" cushion distinction affects the sparkle pattern — see both in person.
- Looks great on: Wider fingers, where the soft shape sits comfortably. Also beautiful on smaller hands when paired with a halo.
Emerald
The sophisticated choice. The emerald cut is a step-cut diamond with long, linear facets that create a "hall of mirrors" effect. It doesn't sparkle like a brilliant-cut — instead, it produces dramatic flashes of light and dark, creating a mesmerising depth.
- Facets: 57
- Best for: Those who appreciate understated elegance over maximum sparkle. The emerald cut is a favourite among design professionals and fashion-forward buyers.
- Considerations: The open, transparent faceting pattern means inclusions and colour tints are more visible. Aim for VS2 clarity or higher and H colour or better. The higher clarity and colour requirements are offset by the emerald cut's lower price per carat.
- Looks great on: Long, slender fingers. The rectangular shape adds width and presence.
Radiant
The best of both worlds. The radiant cut combines the elegant rectangular or square outline of an emerald cut with the brilliant-style faceting of a round. The result is a diamond with clean geometric lines that still throws serious sparkle.
- Facets: 70
- Best for: Buyers who love the shape of an emerald cut but want more fire and brilliance.
- Considerations: Radiant cuts hide inclusions and colour well thanks to their complex faceting. You can often go lower on colour and clarity grades without any visible difference.
- Looks great on: All hand types. Available in square and rectangular proportions, so you can choose the ratio that flatters your finger.
Princess
The contemporary square. The princess cut is a square brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, uncut corners. It's the second most popular shape overall and offers excellent brilliance in a modern, geometric package.
- Facets: 57-76 depending on the number of chevron facets
- Best for: Modern, architectural styles. Princess cuts look stunning in channel-set bands and contemporary solitaire settings.
- Considerations: The sharp corners are vulnerable to chipping, so look for settings that protect them with V-prongs or a bezel. Princess cuts also tend to show colour in the corners, so G-H colour or better is recommended.
- Looks great on: Longer fingers. The square shape can make shorter fingers look wider, so consider a slightly rectangular ratio if that's a concern.
Marquise
The show-stopper. Named after the Marquise de Pompadour (King Louis XV reportedly commissioned this shape to resemble her smile), the marquise is a football-shaped diamond with pointed ends. It has the largest face-up area of any diamond shape per carat weight.
- Facets: 56-58
- Best for: Maximising perceived size. A 1-carat marquise looks notably larger than a 1-carat round.
- Considerations: Like ovals, marquise diamonds can exhibit a bow-tie effect. Symmetry is crucial — the two points must align perfectly, or the diamond will look off-balance. Protect the points with V-prongs.
- Looks great on: Shorter or wider fingers, where the dramatic elongation creates a striking visual effect.
Asscher
The Art Deco icon. The Asscher cut is a square step-cut with deeply trimmed corners, giving it an almost octagonal appearance. Created by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902, it enjoyed a major revival with the Art Deco movement and remains a favourite for vintage-inspired designs.
- Facets: 58
- Best for: Vintage and Art Deco aesthetics. The Asscher's concentric square faceting creates a hypnotic depth effect.
- Considerations: Like the emerald cut, the open faceting reveals inclusions and colour more readily. VS2+ clarity and G+ colour are recommended.
- Looks great on: All hand types, particularly when set in a geometric Art Deco-style mounting.
Heart
The ultimate romantic gesture. The heart shape is unmistakable and deeply symbolic. It requires exceptional cutting skill to achieve proper symmetry, and it works best at larger carat weights (0.75ct and above) where the shape is clearly visible.
- Facets: 56-58
- Best for: The hopeless romantic. Heart-shaped diamonds make beautiful pendants and anniversary gifts.
- Considerations: Symmetry is everything — the two lobes should be identical, and the cleft should be well-defined. Below 0.50 carats, the heart shape becomes difficult to distinguish.
- Looks great on: As a pendant or in a bezel setting. For rings, works best on longer fingers where the width of the shape is flattering.
Which Shape Looks the Biggest?
If maximising visible size is a priority, these shapes offer the largest face-up area per carat:
- Marquise — the undisputed winner for perceived size
- Pear — the elongated shape spreads weight across a larger area
- Oval — 5-10% larger face-up area than a round of equal weight
- Emerald — the long, flat table makes it appear larger
Round brilliants, while beautiful, have the smallest face-up area relative to their weight because more mass is concentrated in the depth of the stone.
Explore Every Shape in Person
Photographs only tell part of the story. The play of light, the sparkle pattern, how a shape sits on your finger — these things need to be experienced firsthand.
At 6ix of Diamonds, we carry all ten shapes in our lab-grown diamond collection. Book a private appointment at our Toronto Diamond District showroom and try them on — we'll help you find the shape that speaks to you.